Sip, Savor & Salute the Alexander Valley

Only weeks ago the Kincade Fire tore through the Alexander Valley, putting residents and wineries on edge as firefighters and first responders heroically battled the ominous flames. Luckily no lives were lost in the massive fire, but several homes and winery structures were destroyed. More than that, the lives and livelihood of those impacted suffered. If you sat at home watching the news (or listening to it from an Eton emergency radio or from your car if you - like we - lost power in the PG&E public safety power shutoff), you felt helpless and wished you could do something.

Other than voting for politicians who will take action to address Climate Change, donating to Corazón Healdsburg or other relief efforts, and reducing your own carbon footprint, you can visit and purchase wines and products made in the Alexander Valley and other areas harmed by natural disasters. Remember it was only two years ago that other parts of Sonoma and Napa were hit hard by the Tubbs and Nuns fires. Each time a disaster hits the wine region, the community rallies together and exemplifies #SonomaStrong. And while the fires may devastate certain properties, the overwhelming majority remain untouched by the flames. My husband and I visited the Alexander Valley November 9 - just a few days after firefighters proclaimed the Kincade Fire 100% contained. Although that fire burned over 75,000 acres and destroyed 374 buildings (over half of which were homes), the vast majority of the valley survived and welcomed visitors back with clear blue skies and rolling hills covered in vibrantly colored autumn leaves. I urge you to plan your visit to the Alexander Valley and buy wines from the region.

Robert Young Estate Winery on November 9, 2019 - just days after the Kincade Fire

The Alexander Valley stretches along the northeastern edge of Sonoma County outside the towns of Healdsburg and Geyserville, approximately 90 minutes north of San Francisco. The warm Mediterranean climate of this AVA produces full bodied but softly balanced Cabernet Sauvignon and other Bordeaux varietals. With more than 425 wineries in Sonoma County - 42 of which are in the Alexander Valley, planning a trip can feel overwhelming. That’s why I recommend developing a strategy and game plan based on your personal preferences — whenever and wherever you plan to go wine tasting. Do your research using local online tools like Wine Road, The Press, and Woman Owned Wineries. Personally, I seek out small, family owned wineries - ideally with a woman winemaker, organic or sustainable farming practices, and great wines that are a good value (and by that I mean a quality to price ratio tailored to one’s own subjective palate and budget). These are a few of my personal Alexander Valley favorites.

Where to Taste

In the Vineyards with Stunning Views

Hanna Winery

Hanna sits perched on a hilltop surrounded by vineyards in the central Alexander Valley. Winery president Christine Hanna leads the operations with vineyards and tasting rooms in both the Alexander Valley and Russian River. Hanna produces outstanding Bordeaux and Burgundy varietals in each location, respectively. But you can taste all the wines in each tasting room and even take home a copy of Ms. Hanna’s own cookbook, The Winemaker Cooks, published by Chronicle Books in 2010. While known for their Sauvignon Blanc, I particularly enjoy the Provençal style rosé of Pinot Noir and the Chardonnay. The tasting room offers a relaxed, casual experience with sweeping views of the valley. Reservations are not required but book ahead if you want to reserve a wine and cheese pairing on the veranda or a picnic under the Oak Tree. Visit https://www.hannawinery.com.

Jordan

At this family-owned estate, newly appointed head winemaker Maggie Kruse carries on the tradition of making world class Chardonnay in the Burgundian style (leaner, crisp and more acidic than many of the big, buttery and heavily Oakes Chardonnays for which California has become infamous) and Cabernet Sauvignon. A certified sustainable winery, Jordan preserves over three quarters of its beautiful sprawling estate to the natural habitat. Jordan offers tours of the winery and the estate with wine and food pairings. Plan ahead since reservations are required for tours and tastings. Visit https://www.jordanwinery.com.

Tasting at Robert Young Estate Winery

Robert Young Estate Winery

Robert Young Estate Winery produces elegantly balanced and high quality Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, and other Bordeaux varietals. This family owned and operated estate has six generations in the family business, passed down from namesake Robert Young (1919 -2009) who converted his family’s prune ranch to a winery and was the first vintners to plant Cabernet Sauvignon in the Alexander Valley in 1963. His scions founded Robert Young Estate Winery in 1997 and operate the winery today. You’ll often find fifth and sixth generations, Robert, Jr. pouring wines in the tasting room and Rachel in the cellar and on social media. At the plentiful member events, the family members greet guests, drive them in a tractor-pulled trolley and causally engage guests in discussions of the wines. My husband and I joined the Robert Young wine club over a decade ago when tastings were hosted at a small counter inside the roadside white barn. That was long before the beautiful new website and hilltop Scion House tasting room that opened in the back half of 2018. It elevates the tasting experience with the best views I’ve seen of the Alexander Valley yet still maintains the winery’s warm hospitality. It’s a required stop for any visit to the area. Thanks to quick action by Robert, Jr. and his father, Fred, to stamp out a pre-dawn brush fire on their property and the valiant efforts of the firefighters to beat back the encroaching Kincade fire, the beautiful estate remains. Read about their efforts and see just how close the fire came here. Open daily 10 am - 4:30 pm. Visit https://www.ryew.com

A view from the Scion House tasting room at Robert Young Estate Winery

Silver Oak

Silver Oak needs no introduction. You’ve seen it offered on wine lists all across the country and may have received a bottle or two as a gift in your lifetime. It’s a brand that exudes luxury. And the Alexander Valley tasting room aptly displays that brand image. Personally I prefer the velvety Cabernet Sauvignons of Robert Young to the heavily oaked and grippy tannins of Silver Oak, but these wines are loved by many and can age very well if you have the patience. Even if you don’t want to taste the wine, I recommend a visit to Silver Oak’s LEED-certified tasting room for the architectural beauty and outstanding gift shop (more than just Silver Oak logo wear, they offered lovely wine totes, cookbooks, ceramic pieces, and jewelry). You can also charge your electric vehicle on their plentiful charging stations. Open daily until 5 pm. Visit https://www.silveroak.com/visit-us/alexander-valley/

Spectacular indoor-outdoor tasting room at Silver Oak

Soda Rock Winery

Unlike the other wineries mentioned here, Soda Rock Winery failed to escape the wrath of the Kincade Fire, which took its main winery structure and its 2019 vintage. But just a few feet away, the old wooden barn survived and now hosts wine tastings. We visited Soda Rock for a tasting on November 9, when their road sign sign proclaimed “Recovery Begins! Taste Today.” Over the celebratory music played by a live band, wine club members and the public tasted Soda Rock wines paired with pulled pork sliders and sinful chocolate brownies. We walked away with six bottles of the 2015 Lord Snort — a silky blend of Cabernet Sauvignons (50%) and Merlot (40%) — and hearts full of admiration for the resilient spirit of the winery team and the community that flocked there to support them. Visit Soda Rock daily from 11 am to 4 pm or buy wines on-line at http://sodarockwinery.com.

The Lord Snort sculpture survived the Kincade fire, but the main winery structure, pictured behind it, did not - November 9, 2019

Soda Rock Winery’s barn now hosts tastings after the main winery burned down in the Kincade Fire - pictured November 9, 2019

The Soda Rock Winery Barn survived the Kincade fire and now hosts tastings during their recovery - November 9, 2019

Tasting Rooms in Town

Healdsburg: While you’re in the Alexander Valley, you’re bound to visit the idyllic town of Healdsburg. As you stroll the charming town plaza, I recommend you visit these tasting rooms.

• Lioco is a stylish newcomer to downtown Healdsburg offering restrained California Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Carignan. They also serve the most delicious gluten free crackers. The tasting room feels like a cocktail lounge with bright pops of yellow upholstered mid century chairs walk-ins - make this your stop before dinner on the square. Reservations are not required. Open daily from 12 -7 pm. Visit https://www.liocowine.com.

• Portalupi located just one block from the Healdsburg Square is worth a stop on your journey. Portalupi produces Italian style wines by husband and wife owners and winemakers, Tim Borges and Jane Portalupi, sourcing grapes from California vineyards in Carneros, Russian River, and the Sierra Foothills. My favorites include the Barbera and Vaso di Marina (a red wine blend sold in a 1 liter milk bottle inspired by Jane’s grandmother Marina). Open daily from 11 - 6 daily ( until 7 pm on Saturdays and Sundays). Walk-ins welcomed. Visit https://portalupiwine.com.

Geyserville: The town of Geyserville feels like it’s straight out of the Wild West with a short block of shops, restaurants, and tasting rooms. My favorite is Mercury. If nothing else, Mercury makes for a fun stop at the end of the day while you wait for your table at Diavola Pizzeria next door. Listen to a vinyl LP in the convivial tasting room where you’ll likely encounter the winemaker-owner, Brad, his brother, Grady, and occasionally the winery dog, Freddie [Mercury] and be treated to warm hospitality and fabulous wines. My favorites are the Messenger (Cabernet Sauvignon blend) and Mercurio (100% Tempranillo blended solara style and bursting with notes of fig and cherry). Open daily from 12 - 5 pm. Visit http://www.mercurywine.com.

Where to Eat

Breakfast

• The Parish Cafe serves soul-satisfying New Orleans fare in a charming cafe in downtown Healdsburg. Don’t miss the chicory coffee and beignets.

• Flying Goat Coffee roasts mighty fine coffee and serves espresso drinks to kick off your day of tasting. Grab a pastry there or at the Downtown Bakery on the next block.

Carnitas and Pollo Tacos from Los Plebes Taco Truck

Lunch

• Los Plebes is a taco truck that parks right off Highway 101 at the Lytton Springs exit. They make a killer carnitas taco you scarf down while standing up hunched over the hood of your car. At only $2 per taco, you can save money on lunch to put toward procuring more Alexander Valley wines. Next time I’m heading there for a breakfast of chorizo and eggs, since they are open 10 am - 4:30 daily.

• Jimtown Store is in the heart of the Alexander Valley and open for breakfast and lunch. Eat outside on their covered patio or inside the charming store where you can browse the culinary provisions, candy selections, and children’s toys while you wait for your order. Pro tip: the housemade tortilla chips are out of this world.

• Oakville Grocery has an outpost on the Healdsburg Square where you can grab breakfast or picnic lunch supplies to take on your wine tasting journey and find a scenic spot to stop between tastings.

The Jimtown Store

Dinner and Drinks

• Diavola Pizzeria & Salumeria makes some of the very best pizza in California using their house-cured salted pork parts in a wood-burning oven and outstanding salads and pastas from locally sourced and sustainable farms and ranches. It’s located in downtown Geyserville and should not be missed. Order the Boscailo or Inferno pizza and add some of the housemade sausage. Don't forget to drizzle it with the Calabrian Chili oil provided on each table.

• Bravas serves Spanish cuisine in a convivial atmosphere just off the Healdsburg Plaza. Sit outside in the charming, shaded backyard where, if you’re lucky, you’ll witness paella being made to order over an open-flame. Try a flight of dry Sherry wines to pair with your Croquetas or Tortilla Española.

• Duke’s serves craft cocktails and tasty bar snacks on the Healdsburg Square. For the full Op-Edible experience, order the Mr. Brownstone (Alley 6 Rye, Toasted Cedar Bourbon, Alessio Chinato Vermouth + Duke's Burdock Bitters) and the corn dog pops served with stadium mustard.

• Geyserville Gun Club next to Diavola makes a great spot to head for a cocktail after dinner. I always crave hard alcohol after a day of tasting. Order the Oldfellows Manhattan on tap - a brilliant way to expedite service with a batched and chilled cocktail. They also offer seafood crudos and Latin and Asian Streetfood menu items.

Side entrance to the back patio of Bravas

The paella at Bravas

The old oak tree guards the vines at Robert Young Estate Winery

Fish Tacos and Friendship in Coastal Florida

This morning, during a sunrise walk on the beach - taking in the view, collecting seashells, and sharing a moment with my mom, I had a quiet revelation. She and the dear friends she has made in her newly proclaimed home are like the seashells that wash upon the shores of South Hutchinson Island, Florida. They all had lives elsewhere. Each unique and beautiful in their own way. And now, after a transformation, the waves and shoreline drew them here. They found each other here on the coast - now neighbors and friends. They maintain their individual history and perspective (some very different politically), but they find new common ground - in part, by proximity, and, in part, by goodness of heart.

Some arrive in pristine condition. Others are broken and worn by time or circumstance. As we walked, my mom and her friend, Barbara, scanned the beach for shells to add to their collections. "Oh, look at this one! I have a jar just for these," Barbara exclaimed. Mom replied, "they are all treasures." Mom likes the broken ones that look like conical vivisections. Some day they may become part of an art project. Until then, they will commingle in a glass jar - mementos from a treasure hunt past. 

Speaking of treasure hunts ... wherever I go, I am on the hunt for great food. After being tipped off by a local Stuart resident a few years ago, I have become addicted to the fish tacos at The Taco Shack in Stuart, Florida. There's no view (neither ocean nor intercostal), no table service, and no attitude - just delicious tacos and their compadres. 

My personal favorite is the Blackened Mahi Fish Taco. The fish is perfectly cooked and covered in crunchy cabbage and corn salsa. My mom prefers the Grilled Shrimp Taco, which is also excellent. On a prior visit we also shared a delicious Vegetable Quesadilla, seasoned with a hint of cinnamon, clove, and nutmeg. 

No trip to The Taco Shack is complete without Housemade Warm Corn Tortilla Chips with Queso, Guacamole, and Pico de Gallo (otherwise known as The Three Amigos). These go quite nicely with a cold Modelo Amber - one of a handful of beers on tap. But they are best shared with a friend - new, old, or related. 

The Taco Shack is located at 555 S. Colorado Avenue in Stuart, Florida. Open Monday - Saturday from 11:00 a.m. to 9:00 p.m. Pro tip: visit on Taco Tuesdays (two tacos for $10) or any day before 5:00 p.m. when Castronova Chocolate is open. Note on Thursdays and Fridays Castonova offers freshly baked chocolate chip cookies made with Irish butter and their delicious chocolate chunks.

Civics, Civility, and Cuisine of Washington, D.C.

"Food is our common ground, a universal experience." - James Beard

We are embroiled in a vitriolic presidential campaign. Deep political divides exist in our country. And our elected representatives in Washington are in a standoff. Amidst this backdrop, recently my husband and I vacationed in D.C. We visited all three branches of our government, monuments, and museums. And on the steps of the Lincoln Memorial, we stood in the exact location where Martin Luther King, Jr. stood as he delivered the "I Have a Dream" speech in 1963. We did so after spending the day in the extraordinary new National Museum of African American History & Culture (NMAAHC). We did so as husband and wife: one black, one white - an interracial marriage that was illegal in many states when Dr. King gave that momentous speech.

With eyes wide open, we gazed onto the Washington, D.C. skyline noticing the sharp, bronze, and beautiful NMAAHC building rising up against the stark white Washington Monument and, indeed, all of the other white buildings housing our civic institutions. Powerful symbolism.

We are a nation of immigrants, and the Washington, D.C. restaurant scene is a reflection of our diverse and vibrant citizenry. In eight days, we dined on American, Mexican, Spanish, Italian, Greek, Thai, French, Korean, and Indian food. And we didn't even scratch the surface. My biggest regret was not making it to Bad Saint, a Filipino restaurant Bon Appetit just named the second best new restaurant in America. Next time! We made it to several great spots, and what follows is our D.C. dining experience.

Lobster Roll and Old Bay Fries at Hank's Oyster Bar, DuPont Circle

Hank's Oyster Bar was our first stop on our culinary tour of D.C. It's a classic restaurant and raw bar in the charming DuPont Circle neighborhood. The lobster roll served with French fries dusted in Old Bay was incredible. We grabbed a gelato at Dolcezza and Stumptown espresso later after a pleasant neighborhood stroll.

Gambas al Ajillo at Jaleo

Next up was lunch at Jaleo after a tour of the Capitol and Library of Congress. I am addicted to the Gambas al Ajillo at Jaleo. It's a very simple dish of sautéed shrimp with garlic, guindilla peppers, and a splash of brandy. The garlic is paper thin and beautifully browned yet not bitter. I've tried to replicate the recipe at home but I can't quite perfect it. So I order it and pepper the waiter with questions on every visit.   

We closed out the evening at Jack Rose Dining Saloon where the highlight is the mind blowing selection of whiskey and comfort food. The 2,687 bottles of whiskey line every inch of the walls.

We spent the next day touring the NMAAHC and had a great lunch at the Sweet Home Café where we indulged in delicious fried chicken, collard greens, shrimp and grits, and cornbread. Later that evening we shared a dessert and some port at Restaurant Nora - the first certified organic restaurant in the United States. Glad we got to experience it before chef-owner Nora Pouillon retires and sells, as recently reported in the Washington Post.

Momofuku Pork Buns at Momofuku CCDC

Braised Fried Chicken at Momofuku CCDC

The next day we ate Korean/Asian fusion food at Momofuku CCDC. The pork buns with Momofuku Ssäm sauce are legendary. After we devoured those, Eric opted for Momofuku ramen while I chose the braised fried chicken with crispy shallots and green onions. It was an epic, satisfying lunch after being on our feet several hours waiting (to no avail) to hear Supreme Court oral arguments in Buck v. Davis - a death penalty case where an expert testified that the defendant was more likely to commit future crimes due to his race. Seriously?! Read more about the case here.

Pintxos and sherry cocktails at Estadio

Next was more Spanish cuisine at Estadio in Logan Circle. I love this place. The atmosphere is warm and slightly rustic with beautiful tile and wood accents. The pintxos and sherry cocktails were a great way to start the meal followed by Crispy Pork Belly & Pickled Shishito Pepper Alioli Bocadillos, Sautéed Kale, Garlic, Oloroso Sherry & Chili Flakes, and Bomba Rice, Wild Mushrooms, English Peas. So so good.

Dessert at Iron Gate

After a day of perusing Georgetown shops and sharing a healthy salad from Sweetgreen,  we later celebrated our wedding anniversary at Iron Gate and indulged in the six-course Greek-Italian influenced tasting menu with beverage pairings. The antipasto plates were some of our favorite bites, including the sesame crusted feta drizzled with honey. The Autumn Squash Agnolotti with apples and sage brown butter was also sublime. It's a romantic place to spend the evening. The patio with an à la carte menu looked very inviting as well. 

Tacos and Guacamole at Mission in DuPont Circle

The next morning we had an early lunch at the classic power lunch spot, Old Ebbitt Grill, before heading across the street for a White House tour. Later we headed back to DuPont Circle for margaritas and Mexican food at Mission. The tacos there are pretty spectacular. Feeling indecisive, I chose the platter of three and got pork belly, carnitas, and chicken tinga. 

The Yankee Burger and Fries at DBGB

After a somber day spent at The Holocaust Memorial Museum reminding ourselves of the dangers posed by hatred and discrimination, we needed a drink and some comfort food. So we headed to Daniel Boulud's DBGB for a glass of wine with a burger and fries. And then we strolled through the National Portrait Gallery to elevate our spirits with beautiful artworks.

Catching up on political news with an everything bagel from Bethesda Bagels in DuPont Circle

Since we were on vacation, we didn't hold back on our carbohydrate consumption. We loved grabbing bagels at Bethesda Bagels in DuPont Circle. They slather a thick layer of fluffy cream cheese on their bagels and make the indulgence totally worth it.​

Half Smoke Chili Dog and Chili Cheese Fries at Ben's Chili Bowl

On our final day in D.C., we headed to the original Ben's Chili Bowl for a chili half-smoke and chili cheese fries. Then after visiting Arlington Cemetery to pay our respects, we headed back to headquarters to pack our bags. Later that evening, we didn't have the energy to line up for Little Serow, so we ordered delivery from Beau Thai. With it we enjoyed a bottle of Virginia wine we picked up at the delightful Glen's Garden Market - a grocery and deli carrying all local food and wine. 

Our trip to Washington, D.C. was clearly delicious, but it was also a great reminder of our nation's history. Progress has been made. Progress must and will continue. But to move forward, we must have empathy and respect for others. We must lower our guards - not build walls. If only we could all just sit down at the table together.

#imwithher